Shakespeare once wrote that a rose by any other name would smell as sweet. But, does the adage stand up when comparing skincare products, where prices range from the affordable to the ridiculously expensive? Is premium always better, or are we marketed into believing whatever the bold print says.
By regulatory definition, anti-ageing creams are cosmetics, not medicines, and they are not required to prove that they can reverse ageing or fundamentally change how skin ages. In the anti-ageing skincare market, creams promise to reduce wrinkles, boost collagen and turn back time.
But, biomedical scientist and product development specialist Dr Judey Pretorius said most of these products are moisturisers that hydrate the skin and plump it up during use. They cannot alter the biology of ageing. “Skin does not recognise price tags or prestige branding. It responds to chemistry and function,” she said. There is also little evidence that price and effectiveness are married. “In clinical and biomedical terms, there is very little correlation,” Dr Pretorius said. “Hydration alone does not reverse structural ageing of the skin, and expensive moisturisers do not possess inherently superior biological activity.”
Bigger price tag always better?
Whether or not an expensive moisturiser is better than a cheaper one, well, the jury is out. She said that it may be advisable to ignore the brand name and read the ingredient list instead.
“A well-designed moisturiser should contain humectants, a substance that attracts and holds water molecules, such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid, to attract water into the skin,” said Dr Pertorius. “Emollients like ceramides and fatty acids to repair and soften the barrier, and occlusives such as petrolatum or dimethicone to prevent moisture loss,” she said. Those ingredients are not exclusive to luxury skincare. They appear across all price points, from pharmacy shelves to high-end counters. If a moisturiser hydrates effectively and supports the skin barrier, it is doing what a moisturiser is supposed to do.
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Many high end creams often cite peptides, botanical extracts and antioxidants, presenting them as evidence of advanced anti-ageing power. Dr Pretorius said the science behind these claims is more, as she called it, restrained than the packaging suggests. “Some of these ingredients do have scientific merit, but their real-world impact depends heavily on formulation, concentration and stability,” she said. Peptides can play a role in skin signalling and barrier support, but they are often marketed as collagen-boosting powerhouses. “That oversells what they can realistically achieve in a topical product,” she said.
A bit of overselling
The same applies to many botanical extracts and antioxidants. While some can help counter oxidative stress, they are frequently included in very small amounts that sound impressive on a label but offer limited biological effect. Dr Pretorius said that storytelling often runs ahead of science, and the presence of a fashionable ingredient does not automatically mean meaningful skin change.
The list of ingredients required is much shorter when it comes to ageing skin and looking after it. A gentle cleanser and a moisturiser that support the skin barrier, along with a daily broad-spectrum sunscreen. That’s pretty much it. “For active ingredients, retinoids remain the gold standard for improving texture, pigmentation and collagen stimulation,” Dr Pretorius said. Look for ingredients like niacinamide, ceramides and glycerine that also play a useful role in maintaining skin health and resilience.
Dr Pretorius said that sunscreen and retinoids must be prioritised over all else. “Ultraviolet radiation is the leading cause of premature ageing, particularly in South Africa where UV exposure is high year-round,” she said. Daily sunscreen use prevents collagen breakdown, pigmentation and DNA damage. Retinoids, supported by decades of clinical evidence, stimulate collagen production and regulate cell turnover.
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